The Brandacujonè is a stockfish cooked with a recipe typical from West Liguria. At Badalucco near Imperia, there is a stockfish fair every September. According to legend, thanks to the reserves of dried fish from Norway unloaded at Porto Maurizio and intended for mid Valle Argentina, the people of Badalucco were able to resist a 17th century siege by infidels and when reinforcements arrived, they threw the attackers back in the sea. As a tribute to the providential fish, the locals cook ?Baucogna-style? stockfish, a very ancient, complicated recipe with a host of ingredients, including hazelnuts, toasted walnut kernels, amaretti biscuits and dried mushrooms. Again in Liguria, but this time closer to the French border, stockfish is cooked alla brandacujon. The etymology of this dish, which probably came from the fishing boats, is easy to guess. Sailors habitually held the pan between their legs to shake (brandare) it with the pitching of the vessel. Along with the pan, obviously, the cook?s testicles (cujon) were also agitated.
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